Is your espresso better than Starbucks?

Inside view of the Roastery, close to central Milan piazza

Over the years, I’ve noticed several times, especially within our industry, what I would define as "Starbucks bashing.” I'm sure you know what I’m talking about, don’t you?

Here are some extracts of what you might have heard in your hotels or restaurants (by the so-called “real” coffee specialists).

Starbucks:

• It’s not real coffee
• What do the Americans understand about the Italian espresso?
• It’s hot water colored black
• Their coffee is served in plastic cups
• It’s only marketing
• Etc

But what makes a good espresso?

Very likely the right water temperature (between 90°C +/-2° at point of extraction), the right espresso load (7 to 8 grams), the right extraction time (maximum 30 seconds), the quality of beans to be grinded and quality of the grinder machine, a good tamper used with the relevant pressure, the quality of the filtering system and water pressure, perfect water (proper mineral control), the quality and temperature of the cup, the perfect crema (golden-brown but not uniform): These are only some basic technical rules to make a good espresso. I'm not even talking about the service or the comfort of the place.

So if we "agree" on some objective rules to define a good espresso, if you look at cities like Paris, Berlin or Geneva (I took Europe on purpose), how many times did you really get a good espresso matching all these criteria in your hotel or restaurant? How many times is the coffee being served, instead, from a “capsule automatic machine”?

I have no shares or particular interest in Starbucks brand, but I’m interested in their sourcing, the volume they do (a key element to keep good espressos), how many times they must maintain their machines (another key element), check the water quality and filtering – and so important: training their staff, etc. I'm far from claiming that they serve the best coffees, but simply check what you do with your own process to have a decent espresso.

Finally, if you have the chance to visit Milano, have a look at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery that opened in 2018 – it is worth having a look…

Stéphane Bellon, founder, Studionomie, Geneva

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